A suit is an absolute must-have in every man's wardrobe. It's useful for important, formal events, when we express our respect for the seriousness of the occasion through our attire. That's why choosing the right suit is so important. In this article , you'll learn step-by-step how to choose a suit.
How to choose a suit? First, the fabric.
Choosing the right fabric is crucial to finding the perfect suit. It will determine your comfort and the overall look of your outfit. The best choice is a suit made of wool . Contrary to popular belief, this material isn't reserved for the fall and winter seasons. Wool fabric, depending on its thickness, will also work well in summer, as wool breathes and drapes beautifully. The most popular type of wool used for suits is worsted wool. Linen, on the other hand, is used for summer suits. Linen tends to wrinkle easily, making it unsuitable for formal suits. When searching for the right suit, you may encounter designations such as 110s, 120s, or 140s, which denote the thickness of the wool fabric. The higher the number, the finer the yarn fiber. Fabrics above 140s are not suitable for making a suit due to their delicacy.
The lining fabric should also be of natural origin to ensure breathability. When you see names like acetate, cupro, viscose, or silk on the label, you can be confident about the comfort of your suit.
A suit made from natural fabrics isn't cheap, but it's definitely worth the investment, as it's an investment that will last for years . Cheaper polyester suits don't look as impressive as wool ones. Polyester fabric has a distinctive sheen that betrays its questionable quality.
How to choose a suit depending on the occasion?
Wondering how to choose the right suit for the occasion? Navy blue and ash gray are the most versatile colors for men's suits and are recommended for formal wear. A suit in these colors will work well when your workplace has a strict business dress code, for job interviews, weddings, First Communions, baptisms, etc. Black, on the other hand, is suitable for evening events and galas (proms, carnivals, etc.) and funerals.
Patterns (checks, stripes) and other colors are permitted in situations that allow for semi-formal attire, such as business meetings, theater, dinners at an elegant restaurant, and family gatherings. Important: Remember that a classic formal jacket fastens with two buttons and has two back vents. A single vent is more common in semi-formal jackets.
How to choose your suit size?
Suit labels typically feature three numbers: the first indicates height, the second indicates chest circumference, and the third indicates waist circumference . Unfortunately, one of the biggest mistakes men make is choosing a suit that's too big. Therefore, it's important to remember that a suit serves primarily an aesthetic purpose, showing respect for the other person or the situation. However, a well-fitting suit doesn't mean discomfort. A suit shouldn't be tight, but rather gently hug your body, leaving just a few centimeters of room.
The shoulders, collar, and back of a jacket are among the most difficult parts to tailor, so when purchasing a jacket, it must fit properly in these areas. Furthermore, the jacket should end at the buttocks , while the hem of the trousers should reach the shoe and slightly overlap the lacing. One small crease in the leg is acceptable, but no more, as this would indicate the trousers are too long and unattractive. It's difficult to find a suit in a store that fits perfectly in every area. Don't be discouraged if the jacket or trousers don't fit properly. Many stores include tailoring alterations (e.g., narrowing the legs/jacket, shortening the sleeves/legs, moving buttons, etc.) in the price of the suit.
How to choose the perfect shirt?
A shirt should be chosen primarily to complement a suit. For formal attire, a shirt made of plain fabric in white, blue, and pink is recommended. Plain shirts also make a good backdrop for patterned suits. Patterned shirts, on the other hand, can add a touch of nonchalance to a plain suit. Of course, you can combine patterns in a semi-formal style, but this is a "higher school of driving," and if you know how to do it with class, such a combination will definitely be interesting.
Shirts are most often made of poplin, which can be see-through, so we recommend wearing an invisible men's undershirt under the shirt .
It's worth noting that you might see the designation TWO PLY on shirt labels—this is a higher-quality fabric made of yarn twisted from two thinner threads. This type of fabric wrinkles less and is easier to iron.
How to match the right shoe model to a suit?
For a formal suit, choose leather Oxfords with a closed vamp. They have a distinctive fold-over toe and thin sole. For semi-formal wear, however, open-toe English shoes (Derby shoes), monks (buckles), brogues (shoes with a fold-over toe and decorative embossing), and loafers (a type of elegant leather moccasin) are ideal. Black and brown are the most versatile shoe colors.
How to change the style of a suit with accessories?
With suit accessories such as a tie, bow tie, pocket square, belt, watch, cufflinks or glasses, you can change the style of your outfit to be a bit more sophisticated or more casual.
- Pocket square
A white pocket square is recommended for formal attire, while a patterned one is more appropriate for semi-formal wear. It's a mistake to pair a pocket square with a tie in the same pattern and color. These two items should complement each other, so it's best to pair them by color (e.g., a plain red tie and a burgundy paisley pocket square).
Pocket squares with interesting patterns and colors are becoming increasingly popular. And rightly so, because a pocket square with a breast pocket beautifully complements the entire outfit and shows that your outfit is deliberate and well-thought-out.
- Tie
A tie, however, can also transform a suit. Choosing a micro-patterned one will certainly be more elegant and formal than one with a large, visible pattern. The least formal type of tie is a knit tie. The best ties are made of silk, but wool and cotton are also available. Remember to also check the tie's filling to make sure it's not too soft or too stiff. When choosing a tie for a formal occasion, it's worth remembering that the greater the contrast between the shirt and tie, the more elegant the outfit . However, a black tie isn't very versatile, as it's only suitable for evenings, funerals, and formal events. The way you tie your tie also has significance. The four-in-hand knot is a very stylish and popular asymmetric knot that suits all collar types and face shapes. The half-Windsor knot is a symmetrical knot suitable for formal occasions and looks good under the neck of men with wide faces.
- Fly
Bow ties are a good choice for both formal and informal events. They're generally not recommended for everyday wear. However, this isn't a hard-and-fast rule, because if you're creative and enjoy wearing interesting pieces, a bow tie can accentuate your personality. You'll look your best with a tied bow tie. Thanks to its spaciousness and shape, it looks much better than a pre-tied one.
- Cufflinks
Cufflinks as a piece of jewelry should be selected in color to match other accessories included in this category, i.e. a watch, tie clip and belt buckle.
- Belt
When it comes to belts, for formal wear, they should match the color of the shoes. It may be difficult to find a belt in the same color with brown shoes. However, if you can't find one, you can choose a belt slightly darker or in a similar shade of brown. The most durable belts are made of genuine leather.
- Watch
- Socks
There are two schools of thought when it comes to matching socks to a suit: to match your trousers and to match your shoes. You can decide which option suits you best. For less formal occasions, you can wear colorful socks that match the pattern on your tie, shirt, or pocket square. In either case, remember that your socks shouldn't expose your calf when you sit down.
A suit is the foundation of an elegant men's outfit; you can vary its style with different shirts, shoes, and accessories. Remember, a suit is a long-term investment, and it's more likely to wear out with use than to go out of style . So, make sure you choose the right suit!
Anna Ochman Stylist
